{"id":61535,"date":"2026-03-08T11:21:56","date_gmt":"2026-03-08T10:21:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/?p=61535"},"modified":"2026-03-26T05:54:20","modified_gmt":"2026-03-26T04:54:20","slug":"como-ajustar-el-desviador-trasero","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/es\/how-to-adjust-rear-derailleur\/","title":{"rendered":"C\u00f3mo ajustar un desviador trasero: gu\u00eda paso a paso"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t<div data-elementor-type=\"wp-post\" data-elementor-id=\"61535\" class=\"elementor elementor-61535\" data-elementor-post-type=\"post\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-6b215b3 e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"6b215b3\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-25a57ea elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"25a57ea\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<script type=\"application\/ld+json\"><span data-mce-type=\"bookmark\" style=\"display: inline-block; width: 0px; overflow: hidden; line-height: 0;\" class=\"mce_SELRES_start\">\ufeff<\/span>\n  {\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"BlogPosting\",\n    \"headline\": \"How to Adjust a Rear Derailleur: Step-by-Step Guide\",\n    \"description\": \"Learn how to adjust your rear derailleur step by step: limit screws, barrel adjuster, B-tension, and indexing. Plus OSPW-specific tips from drivetrain friction experts.\",\n    \"url\": \"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/how-to-adjust-rear-derailleur\/\",\n    \"datePublished\": \"2026-02-25\",\n    \"dateModified\": \"2026-02-25\",\n    \"author\": {\n  \"@type\": \"Person\",\n  \"name\": \"Ilan Lemos de Abreu\"\n},\n\"publisher\": {\n  \"@type\": \"Organization\",\n  \"name\": \"CyclingCeramic\",\n  \"url\": \"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\",\n  \"logo\": {\n    \"@type\": \"ImageObject\",\n    \"url\": \"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/cyclingceramic-logo.png\"\n  }\n},\n\"mainEntityOfPage\": {\n  \"@type\": \"WebPage\",\n  \"@id\": \"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/how-to-adjust-rear-derailleur\/\"\n},\n    \"keywords\": \"how to adjust rear derailleur, rear derailleur adjustment, how to adjust shimano rear derailleur, how to index gears, barrel adjuster, B-tension screw, derailleur limit screws\"\n  }\n  <\/script>\n\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\">\n  {\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"HowTo\",\n    \"name\": \"How to Adjust a Rear Derailleur\",\n    \"description\": \"Complete step-by-step rear derailleur adjustment guide covering limit screws, cable tension, B-gap, and fine-tuning for smooth, precise shifting.\",\n    \"totalTime\": \"PT20M\",\n    \"tool\": [\n      {\"@type\": \"HowToTool\", \"name\": \"Phillips or JIS screwdriver\"},\n      {\"@type\": \"HowToTool\", \"name\": \"5mm hex wrench\"},\n      {\"@type\": \"HowToTool\", \"name\": \"Cable cutters (if replacing cable)\"},\n      {\"@type\": \"HowToTool\", \"name\": \"Bike repair stand (recommended)\"}\n    ],\n    \"step\": [\n      {\n        \"@type\": \"HowToStep\",\n        \"position\": 1,\n        \"name\": \"Set the H-limit screw (high gear)\",\n        \"text\": \"Shift to the smallest cog. Turn the barrel adjuster fully clockwise to remove cable tension. Adjust the H-limit screw until the guide pulley sits directly below the smallest cog. The chain should run silently without rubbing.\"\n      },\n      {\n        \"@type\": \"HowToStep\",\n        \"position\": 2,\n        \"name\": \"Set cable tension and index the gears\",\n        \"text\": \"With the chain on the smallest cog, click the shifter once. If the chain hesitates shifting to the second cog, turn the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise one full turn. If it overshifts past the second cog, turn clockwise. Fine-tune with quarter-turn increments until each click produces one clean shift.\"\n      },\n      {\n        \"@type\": \"HowToStep\",\n        \"position\": 3,\n        \"name\": \"Set the L-limit screw (low gear)\",\n        \"text\": \"Shift to the largest cog. Adjust the L-limit screw until the guide pulley aligns directly below the largest cog. Safety check: push the shifter inward beyond the last click \u2014 the derailleur should not move further toward the spokes.\"\n      },\n      {\n        \"@type\": \"HowToStep\",\n        \"position\": 4,\n        \"name\": \"Adjust B-tension (B-gap)\",\n        \"text\": \"Shift to the smallest chainring and largest cog. Measure the gap between the top of the guide pulley teeth and the bottom of the largest cog teeth. Aim for 5\u20136mm for most derailleurs. Tighten the B-screw to increase the gap, loosen to decrease it.\"\n      },\n      {\n        \"@type\": \"HowToStep\",\n        \"position\": 5,\n        \"name\": \"Fine-tune and test under load\",\n        \"text\": \"Cycle through all gears up and down the cassette. Make quarter-turn barrel adjuster corrections for any hesitation. Test shifting under pedaling load on a ride. Recheck after 50\u2013100 km if you installed new cables, as cable stretch will require a slight tension increase.\"\n      }\n    ]\n  }\n  <\/script>\n\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\">\n  {\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n      {\n        \"@type\": \"Question\",\n        \"name\": \"What are the 3 screws on a rear derailleur?\",\n        \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n          \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n          \"text\": \"The three adjustment screws are: the H-limit screw (controls how far outward the derailleur can move toward the smallest cog), the L-limit screw (controls how far inward it can move toward the largest cog and spokes), and the B-tension screw (controls the gap between the guide pulley and cassette). On most Shimano and SRAM derailleurs, H and L are labeled directly on the derailleur body.\"\n        }\n      },\n      {\n        \"@type\": \"Question\",\n        \"name\": \"Which way do you turn a barrel adjuster?\",\n        \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n          \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n          \"text\": \"Counter-clockwise (turning it outward, away from the frame) increases cable tension, which shifts the derailleur inward toward larger cogs. Clockwise (turning it inward) decreases tension, shifting the derailleur outward toward smaller cogs. Always adjust in quarter-turn increments for precision.\"\n        }\n      },\n      {\n        \"@type\": \"Question\",\n        \"name\": \"How do I know if my derailleur hanger is bent?\",\n        \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n          \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n          \"text\": \"Key symptoms of a bent hanger: shifting works well in some parts of the cassette but poorly in others, no barrel adjuster setting produces clean shifting across all gears, and the problem appeared after a crash or impact. Look at the derailleur from behind the bike \u2014 the cage should hang perfectly vertical. A derailleur hanger alignment tool (like the Park Tool DAG-2.2) provides a definitive check.\"\n        }\n      },\n      {\n        \"@type\": \"Question\",\n        \"name\": \"Why does my chain skip under load?\",\n        \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n          \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n          \"text\": \"Chain skipping under pedaling force is usually caused by a worn chain, worn cassette, or both. Check chain wear with a chain checker tool \u2014 replace at 0.5% elongation for 11\/12-speed. If the chain is new but still skips, the cassette teeth are likely worn to match the old chain's stretch. Other causes include incorrect cable tension or a bent derailleur hanger.\"\n        }\n      },\n      {\n        \"@type\": \"Question\",\n        \"name\": \"How often should you adjust your rear derailleur?\",\n        \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n          \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n          \"text\": \"A properly set up derailleur on a well-maintained bike rarely needs full readjustment. However, check shifting monthly and fine-tune the barrel adjuster as needed. New cables stretch significantly during the first 100\u2013200 km, requiring a tension increase. Any crash or impact that contacts the derailleur side warrants an immediate hanger and limit screw check.\"\n        }\n      }\n    ]\n  }\n  <\/script>\n\n<article><!-- INTRO --><section>\n<p style=\"font-size: 1.1rem; color: #444;\">A clicking, skipping, or hesitant rear derailleur is one of the most common frustrations in cycling \u2014 and one of the easiest to fix at home. Whether your shifting degraded gradually or went wrong after a crash, this guide walks you through the complete adjustment process in five clear steps.<\/p>\nYou will need a Phillips or JIS screwdriver, a 5mm hex wrench, and ideally a bike repair stand. The whole process takes about 20\u00a0minutes for a full adjustment, or 2\u00a0minutes for a quick barrel adjuster fix mid-ride.\n\n<\/section><!-- PRE-CHECKS -->\n\n<section>\n<h2>Before You Touch a Screw: Pre-Adjustment Checks<\/h2>\nMany shifting problems have nothing to do with derailleur adjustment. Before turning any screws, rule out these common causes \u2014 otherwise you will be chasing a problem that adjustment alone cannot fix.\n\n<strong>Derailleur hanger alignment.<\/strong> Look at the derailleur from directly behind the bike. The cage should hang perfectly vertical. If it angles inward or outward, the hanger is bent \u2014 typically from a crash or the bike falling over. A bent hanger makes precise indexing impossible regardless of how well you set the limit screws and cable tension. Straightening requires a hanger alignment tool or a visit to your bike shop.\n\n<strong>Chain and cassette wear.<\/strong> A stretched chain causes skipping under load that mimics poor adjustment. Check with a chain wear tool: replace at 0.5% elongation for 11-speed and 12-speed drivetrains. If your chain is past this limit, a new chain on a worn cassette will also skip \u2014 both may need replacing together.\n\n<strong>Cable condition.<\/strong> Inspect the shift cable for fraying (especially at anchor bolt and lever entry) and the outer housing for cracks or kinks. Corroded or damaged cables create inconsistent tension that no amount of barrel adjuster tweaking can resolve. Replace if in doubt.\n\n<strong>Wheel seating.<\/strong> Confirm the rear wheel is fully seated in the dropouts. A wheel that is even slightly off-center in the frame shifts the cassette position relative to the derailleur, causing ghost shifting problems.\n\n<\/section><!-- STEP 1 -->\n\n<section>\n<h2><span style=\"display: inline-block; background: #1565C0; color: #fff; width: 32px; height: 32px; border-radius: 50%; text-align: center; line-height: 32px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 0.95rem; margin-right: 0.5rem; vertical-align: middle;\">1<\/span> Set the H-Limit Screw (Smallest Cog)<\/h2>\nThe H-limit screw controls how far <em>outward<\/em> the derailleur can travel \u2014 preventing the chain from dropping off the smallest cog and into the frame. Setting it first with cable tension removed gives you a clean baseline.\n\n<strong>How to do it:<\/strong> Shift to the smallest cog. Turn the barrel adjuster fully clockwise (this removes cable tension from the equation so you are adjusting only the screw). Now turn the H-screw while watching the guide pulley (the upper jockey wheel) from behind. Tighten the H-screw until the guide pulley sits <strong>directly below the smallest cog<\/strong>. The chain should run silently with no rubbing against the next cog inward.\n<div style=\"background: #f8f9fa; border-left: 4px solid #1565C0; padding: 1rem 1.25rem; margin: 1.5rem 0; border-radius: 0 6px 6px 0;\"><strong>Common mistake:<\/strong> Many mechanics think their H-limit is correct when it is actually cable tension holding the derailleur in position. Always set the H-limit with the barrel adjuster screwed fully clockwise to remove cable influence.<\/div>\n<\/section><!-- STEP 2 -->\n\n<section>\n<h2><span style=\"display: inline-block; background: #1565C0; color: #fff; width: 32px; height: 32px; border-radius: 50%; text-align: center; line-height: 32px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 0.95rem; margin-right: 0.5rem; vertical-align: middle;\">2<\/span> Set Cable Tension and Index the Gears<\/h2>\nThis is the step that solves 90% of shifting problems. Cable tension determines how precisely each shifter click moves the derailleur from one cog to the next \u2014 a process called <em>indexing<\/em>.\n\n<strong>How to do it:<\/strong> With the chain on the smallest cog, click the shifter once. If the chain does not shift cleanly to the second cog, turn the barrel adjuster <strong>counter-clockwise (CCW)<\/strong> one full turn. If it overshifts past the second cog, turn <strong>clockwise (CW)<\/strong>. Then fine-tune in quarter-turn increments.\n<div style=\"background: #f8f9fa; border-left: 4px solid #1565C0; padding: 1rem 1.25rem; margin: 1.5rem 0; border-radius: 0 6px 6px 0;\"><strong>Direction rule to memorize:<\/strong> Counter-clockwise (unscrewing) = more cable tension = derailleur moves inward toward larger cogs. Clockwise (screwing in) = less tension = derailleur moves outward toward smaller cogs. This applies to barrel adjusters on the derailleur, the shifter, and inline adjusters.<\/div>\nWork through the full cassette: shift up one gear at a time, then back down. If shifting is hesitant going to larger cogs (upshift), add a quarter-turn CCW. If it hesitates going to smaller cogs (downshift), add a quarter-turn CW. The goal is one clean, immediate shift per click in both directions across every gear.\n\n<\/section><!-- STEP 3 -->\n\n<section>\n<h2><span style=\"display: inline-block; background: #1565C0; color: #fff; width: 32px; height: 32px; border-radius: 50%; text-align: center; line-height: 32px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 0.95rem; margin-right: 0.5rem; vertical-align: middle;\">3<\/span> Set the L-Limit Screw (Largest Cog)<\/h2>\nThe L-limit screw prevents the derailleur from shifting the chain past the largest cog and into the spokes. This is a <strong>safety-critical<\/strong> adjustment.\n\n<strong>How to do it:<\/strong> Shift to the largest cog. Adjust the L-screw until the guide pulley aligns directly below the largest cog \u2014 chain running smoothly with no hesitation or noise. Then perform the safety check: with the chain on the largest cog, push the shifter lever inward as if trying to shift further. The derailleur should not move any further toward the wheel.\n<div style=\"background: #fff3e0; border-left: 4px solid #E65100; padding: 1rem 1.25rem; margin: 1.5rem 0; border-radius: 0 6px 6px 0;\"><strong>\u26a0 Safety warning:<\/strong> An L-limit set too loose allows the chain to shift into the spokes, which can lock the rear wheel instantly and cause a serious crash. Always perform the push test after setting the L-limit, and recheck after any cable tension adjustment.<\/div>\n<\/section><!-- STEP 4 -->\n\n<section>\n<h2><span style=\"display: inline-block; background: #1565C0; color: #fff; width: 32px; height: 32px; border-radius: 50%; text-align: center; line-height: 32px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 0.95rem; margin-right: 0.5rem; vertical-align: middle;\">4<\/span> Adjust B-Tension (B-Gap)<\/h2>\nThe B-tension screw controls the distance between the guide pulley and the cassette cogs. Too close and the chain stutters in the largest cogs. Too far and shifting becomes sluggish across the whole range.\n\n<strong>How to do it:<\/strong> Shift to the smallest chainring and largest rear cog (the combination that creates the least chain tension). Look at the gap between the top of the guide pulley teeth and the bottom of the largest cog teeth. The standard target is <strong>5\u20136\u00a0mm<\/strong> for most derailleurs. Tighten the B-screw to increase the gap, loosen to decrease it.\n<table style=\"width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; margin: 1.5rem 0; font-size: 0.92rem;\">\n<thead style=\"background: #1A1A2E; color: #fff;\">\n<tr>\n<th style=\"background: #1A1A2E; color: #fff; padding: 0.7rem 0.8rem; text-align: left; font-weight: 600;\">Brand \/ System<\/th>\n<th style=\"background: #1A1A2E; color: #fff; padding: 0.7rem 0.8rem; text-align: left; font-weight: 600;\">B-Gap Spec<\/th>\n<th style=\"background: #1A1A2E; color: #fff; padding: 0.7rem 0.8rem; text-align: left; font-weight: 600;\">Notes<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\"><strong>Shimano mechanical<\/strong> (10\/11s)<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\">5\u20136 mm<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\">Visual check is sufficient<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\"><strong>Shimano Di2<\/strong> (12s)<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\">3\u20134 mm<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\">Use Shimano&#8217;s B-gap gauge tool for precision<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\"><strong>SRAM mechanical<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\">5\u20136 mm<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\">Consistent with Shimano mechanical<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\"><strong>SRAM AXS<\/strong> (12s)<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\">Chain gap tool<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\">Very sensitive \u2014 use SRAM&#8217;s specific gauge<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\"><strong>Campagnolo<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\">5\u20136 mm<\/td>\n<td style=\"padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; border-bottom: 1px solid #e0e0e0; vertical-align: top;\">Adjust via the &#8220;A screw&#8221; near lower pivot on some models<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/section><!-- STEP 5 -->\n\n<section>\n<h2><span style=\"display: inline-block; background: #1565C0; color: #fff; width: 32px; height: 32px; border-radius: 50%; text-align: center; line-height: 32px; font-weight: bold; font-size: 0.95rem; margin-right: 0.5rem; vertical-align: middle;\">5<\/span> Fine-Tune and Test Under Load<\/h2>\nA derailleur that shifts perfectly on a repair stand can still hesitate under pedaling force. Final tuning requires a test ride.\n\n<strong>How to do it:<\/strong> Cycle through all gears while riding. Shift both up and down under light pedaling pressure. If any gear hesitates, note whether it is shifting toward larger cogs (needs more cable tension \u2014 quarter-turn CCW on barrel adjuster) or toward smaller cogs (needs less \u2014 quarter-turn CW). Most riders can reach the barrel adjuster on the derailleur or the inline adjuster while riding.\n\n<strong>New cable stretch:<\/strong> If you installed new cables, expect them to stretch noticeably during the first 100\u2013200\u00a0km. Plan to add a quarter to half-turn CCW on the barrel adjuster after your first few rides. This is normal and not a sign of a bad setup.\n\n<\/section><!-- SHIMANO vs SRAM vs CAMPA -->\n\n<section>\n<h2>Shimano vs SRAM vs Campagnolo: Key Differences<\/h2>\nThe five-step process above applies to all mechanical rear derailleurs. However, each brand has specific quirks worth knowing.\n\n<strong>Shimano<\/strong> uses a 1.7:1 cable pull ratio, meaning each mm of cable pulled moves the derailleur approximately 1.7\u00a0mm. Shimano&#8217;s 12-speed Di2 system has no cables \u2014 indexing is handled electronically. Fine-tuning Di2 is done via micro-adjust buttons on the shifter: hold both buttons briefly, then click to shift the entire indexing one step inward or outward.\n\n<strong>SRAM<\/strong> uses a different pull ratio (~1.1:1 for newer systems) and is particularly sensitive to B-gap accuracy, especially with Eagle 12-speed. SRAM AXS electronic systems adjust via the AXS app or the left shifter&#8217;s micro-adjust function. One critical SRAM note: the recommended setup order places B-gap adjustment <em>first<\/em>, before limit screws and cable tension.\n\n<strong>Campagnolo<\/strong> uses a proprietary pull ratio that is incompatible with Shimano or SRAM shifters. The adjustment process is identical in principle, though some models use an &#8220;A screw&#8221; near the lower pivot instead of a traditional B-screw. Campagnolo EPS and wireless systems offer micro-adjustment through the shifter buttons.\n\n<\/section><!-- TROUBLESHOOTING -->\n\n<section>\n<h2>Troubleshooting: Adjustment vs. Hanger Problems<\/h2>\nIf your shifting is still inconsistent after a careful adjustment, the problem is likely mechanical rather than tuning-related. Here is how to diagnose the difference:\n\n<strong>Signs of an adjustment issue:<\/strong> shifting hesitates consistently in one direction across the entire cassette (cable tension problem), chain drops off the smallest or largest cog (limit screw problem), or the problem is isolated to one or two specific gears (cable tension fine-tuning needed).\n\n<strong>Signs of a bent derailleur hanger:<\/strong> shifting works well in some parts of the cassette but is poor in others, no barrel adjuster position produces clean shifting across <em>all<\/em> gears simultaneously, and the problem appeared after a crash or impact. A hanger alignment tool provides a definitive check \u2014 this is one of the most underrated investments for a home mechanic.\n\n<strong>Other mechanical causes:<\/strong> worn chain or cassette (skipping under load), sticky cable housing (inconsistent shift feel), damaged derailleur spring (weak return to small cogs), or a cracked derailleur body (visible damage or irregular movement).\n\n<\/section><!-- OSPW \/ BEYOND ADJUSTMENT -->\n\n<section>\n<h2>When Adjustment Isn&#8217;t Enough: Upgrading Your Drivetrain<\/h2>\nA perfectly adjusted stock derailleur still has inherent friction losses. Standard 11-tooth jockey wheels force each chain link to bend approximately 33\u00b0 on entry and exit, and their steel bearings generate significant rolling resistance. Think of adjustment as optimizing within a ceiling \u2014 upgrading raises that ceiling entirely.\n\n<strong>Oversized pulley wheel systems (OSPW)<\/strong> use larger 14\/19-tooth pulleys that reduce chain articulation to approximately 19\u00b0 per link, combined with ceramic bearings that produce a fraction of the friction. CyclingCeramic&#8217;s <a href=\"\/product-category\/oversized-derailleur-cages\/\">OSPW system<\/a> delivers <strong>3.3W of friction savings<\/strong> \u2014 broken down as 2.8W from the oversized pulley principle itself, plus 0.5W from the specific 14\/19T configuration used across all CyclingCeramic cage models \u2014 plus an additional <strong>0.3W from the aerodynamic cage profile<\/strong> (measured via static wind tunnel testing at 40\u00a0km\/h, \u0394CdA = 0.0002), for a <strong>total of 3.6W<\/strong> \u2014 independently validated by Friction Facts testing.\n\nIf you install an OSPW system, note three adjustment changes compared to stock: the chain length typically increases by 2\u20134 links, the B-tension screw usually needs tightening (the larger 14T upper pulley sits closer to the cassette than a stock 11T), and complete re-indexing is required. For detailed installation and setup instructions, see the <a href=\"\/support\/support-for-oversized-cage-cyclingceramic\/\">CyclingCeramic OSPW support page<\/a>.\n<div style=\"background: #e8f5e9; border-left: 4px solid #2E7D32; padding: 0.8rem 1rem; margin: 1rem 0; border-radius: 0 6px 6px 0; font-size: 0.95rem;\"><strong style=\"color: #2e7d32;\">\u26a1 Performance perspective:<\/strong> A stock 11T pulley pair generates approximately 1.175W of friction. CyclingCeramic&#8217;s ceramic pulley wheels produce just <strong>0.039W<\/strong> \u2014 a 97% reduction. Combined with a ceramic bottom bracket and optimized chain, the complete system saves approximately <strong>10W vs a standard setup<\/strong>. That is the equivalent of removing over 3\u00a0kg from your bike. <a href=\"\/quality\/test-data\/\">See complete test data \u2192<\/a><\/div>\n<\/section><!-- FAQ -->\n\n<section>\n<h2>Frequently Asked Questions<\/h2>\n<div>\n<h3>What are the 3 screws on a rear derailleur?<\/h3>\n<div>\n\nThe three adjustment screws are: the <strong>H-limit screw<\/strong> (controls how far outward the derailleur can move toward the smallest cog), the <strong>L-limit screw<\/strong> (controls how far inward it can move toward the largest cog and spokes), and the <strong>B-tension screw<\/strong> (controls the gap between the guide pulley and cassette). On most Shimano and SRAM derailleurs, H and L are labeled directly on the derailleur body.\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<h3>Which way do you turn a barrel adjuster?<\/h3>\n<div>\n\n<strong>Counter-clockwise<\/strong> (turning it outward, away from the frame) increases cable tension, which moves the derailleur inward toward larger cogs. <strong>Clockwise<\/strong> (turning it inward) decreases tension, moving the derailleur outward toward smaller cogs. Always adjust in quarter-turn increments for precision.\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<h3>How do I know if my derailleur hanger is bent?<\/h3>\n<div>\n\nKey symptoms: shifting works well in some parts of the cassette but poorly in others, no barrel adjuster setting produces clean shifting across all gears, and the problem appeared after a crash or impact. Look at the derailleur from behind the bike \u2014 the cage should hang perfectly vertical. A derailleur hanger alignment tool provides a definitive diagnosis.\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<h3>Why does my chain skip under load?<\/h3>\n<div>\n\nChain skipping under pedaling force is usually caused by a worn chain, worn cassette, or both. Check chain wear with a chain checker tool \u2014 replace at <strong>0.5% elongation<\/strong> for 11\/12-speed drivetrains. If the chain is new but still skips, the cassette teeth are likely worn. Other causes include incorrect cable tension or a bent derailleur hanger.\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div>\n<h3>How often should you adjust your rear derailleur?<\/h3>\n<div>\n\nA properly set up derailleur on a well-maintained bike rarely needs full readjustment. Check shifting monthly and fine-tune the barrel adjuster as needed. New cables stretch significantly during the first 100\u2013200\u00a0km, requiring a tension increase. Any crash or impact that contacts the derailleur side warrants an immediate hanger and limit screw check.\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/article>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A clicking, skipping, or hesitant rear derailleur is one of the most common frustrations in cycling \u2014 and one of [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1939,"featured_media":61676,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[264],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-61535","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-workshop"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61535","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1939"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=61535"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/61535\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/61676"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=61535"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=61535"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cyclingceramic.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=61535"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}